City of prophets, home of humanity's first temples
With its old town around Balıklıgöl, its covered bazaar and its hans, Şanlıurfa is one of the liveliest cities of Mesopotamia. Just outside the city, Göbeklitepe is an excavation site whose monumental T-shaped pillars, raised by hunter-gatherers about 11,000 years ago, have changed what we know about human history.
What to see
- Balıklıgöl (the Pool of Abraham) and the mosques and medreses around it.
- The covered bazaar and Gümrük Han: tea and mırra in its courtyard; coppersmiths, felt makers and isot sellers.
- Şanlıurfa Archaeology Museum and Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum.
- Göbeklitepe (about 20 km north-east of the city) and Karahantepe.
- Harran: beehive-domed houses and the ruins of the ancient city (about 45 km to the south).
What to eat
Liver kebab, isot and çiğ köfte, sıra gecesi evening gatherings, şıllık dessert. Mırra is a dark, bitter coffee served in small cups in the bazaar.
Practical information
- In summer temperatures can exceed 40 °C; visit open-air sites early in the morning.
- For Göbeklitepe and Harran, hiring a car or taking a tour is the most practical option.
- Mind the dress code in mosques; visits pause during prayer times.
