If you set aside a full day for Ephesus, you can give the morning to the ancient city and split the afternoon between Selçuk and Şirince. In summer the heat is intense, so getting in at opening time is the most important decision of the day.
Morning: Ephesus Ancient City
The ancient city has two entrances. If you enter by the upper gate (the Magnesian Gate), most of the route runs downhill: the State Agora, the Odeon, Curetes Street, the Temple of Hadrian and, at the very end, the Library of Celsus.
The Library of Celsus was built in the 2nd century AD; the façade you see today was re-erected by archaeologists. Walk from the library to the Great Theatre; it faces the Harbour Street and once held tens of thousands of people.
The Terrace Houses need a separate ticket, but don't miss them: under a protective roof you can see the mosaic floors and wall frescoes of wealthy Ephesians' homes up close.
Midday: Selçuk
The Ephesus Museum in Selçuk displays statues from the excavations, including the famous Artemis statues. Nearby are the single column left of the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the İsa Bey Mosque and the Basilica of St John on Ayasuluk Hill.
Afternoon: Şirince
From Selçuk, a dolmuş takes about 15 minutes up to Şirince. Wander the narrow streets full of stone houses, fruit wines and olive-oil products on foot. Late afternoon is when the village views are at their best.
What you need to know
- On the way out, you can take a taxi from the lower gate back to the upper gate, or board the transfer waiting for you in the car park.
- There's very little shade in the ancient city; a hat, sunscreen and water are essential.
- The House of the Virgin Mary is on Mount Bülbül (Bülbüldağı); allow a separate half day.
- Selçuk can be reached from İzmir by train, connecting with İZBAN.
