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From Kocatepe to Dumlupınar: the martyrs' cemeteries of the Great Offensive
Photo: Beshogur / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Editor's route Remembrance and mourning

From Kocatepe to Dumlupınar: the martyrs' cemeteries of the Great Offensive

A day in the Commander-in-Chief Historical National Park, where the last great battle of the Turkish–Greek War was fought: the Victory Museum in Afyonkarahisar; Kocatepe, from where Mustafa Kemal Paşa watched the offensive on the morning of 26 August 1922; then the Great Offensive, Zafertepe and Dumlupınar martyrs' cemeteries. You travel between the stops by car (≈ 100 km in total).

Duration1 days
Walk≈ 2 km
Stop5
Tickets0
AP

AnatoliaPass editorsRemembrance and mourning collection · last checked 23 October 2026

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881–1938)His life, the War of Independence, the Republic and AnıtkabirRead →
The story in 4 parts

From the offensive to the martyrs' cemetery

Part 1Commander-in-Chief Historical National Park

The area where the last battles of the Turkish–Greek War (1919–1922) were fought was declared the Commander-in-Chief (Başkomutan) Historical National Park on 8 November 1981. Spreading across the provinces of Afyonkarahisar, Kütahya and Uşak, the park is a place of remembrance with its museums, memorials and martyrs' cemeteries.

Part 226 August 1922

The Great Offensive began with an artillery barrage on the morning of 26 August 1922. Mustafa Kemal Paşa watched the operation from the observation post at Kocatepe together with Fevzi (Çakmak) Paşa and İsmet (İnönü) Paşa; it is said that thick fog delayed the opening of fire by half an hour.

Part 3Battle of the Commander-in-Chief

The battle ended on 30 August around Zafertepe, with fighting directed personally by the Commander-in-Chief, and the Greek army withdrew. Today 30 August is celebrated as Victory Day; yet thousands of soldiers on both sides died in the battles.

Part 4Mourning

At a ceremony in Dumlupınar on 30 August 1924, Mustafa Kemal Paşa laid the foundation stone of the Martyred Soldier Monument. Today, in the park's martyrs' cemeteries, you can read the ranks and home towns of the dead, one by one, on their headstones.

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Respect guidelines
  • Be quiet in martyrs' cemeteries, cemeteries and memorials: people still come here to remember their loved ones.
  • Do not step on graves or climb on memorials; do not pose for photos in front of headstones and names.
  • Do not photograph anyone praying, laying flowers or crying; if a ceremony is taking place, follow the officials' directions.
  • Official ceremonies are held between 26 and 30 August: follow the security staff's directions and do not enter ceremony areas without permission.

Remembrance and mourning (grief tourism) means visiting places people go to remember loss and share grief: martyrs' cemeteries, war cemeteries, monuments, historic cemeteries and museums that preserve the memory of disasters. Every place here is an officially open memorial site; we don't include very recent tragedies that people are still grieving, or contested sites. At these places, someone may still be remembering a loved one: keep quiet, don't pose for photos, and don't photograph anyone praying.

Make your own version
  1. 1

    Victory Museum

    Start: central Afyonkarahisar, Millî Birlik Caddesi · stay 45 min

    The building used as headquarters by Mustafa Kemal Paşa and his commanders after Afyonkarahisar was retaken on 27 August 1922. The rooms display belongings of Mustafa Kemal, İsmet İnönü, Fevzi Çakmak and other commanders of the time.

    Victory Museum
    Photo: CeeGee / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    It is reported to have reopened in 2024 after restoration; check whether it is open and its hours before you go. (Photo: 2015.)

  2. 2

    Kocatepe Memorial

    ≈ 30 min by car (≈ 20 km) south-west · stay 60 min

    The hill Mustafa Kemal Pasha reached on the evening of 25 August 1922 and from which he watched the offensive begin on the morning of 26 August. At the summit stand an Atatürk statue, cannons and inscriptions describing the offensive; the Kocatepe section of the park also has martyrs' cemeteries.

    Kocatepe Memorial
    Photo: Ünaydın / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

    The last stretch to the summit is on foot; windy and without shade. There may be snow and ice in winter.

  3. 3

    Great Offensive Martyrs' Cemetery

    ≈ 30 min by car (≈ 25 km) north-west · stay 40 min

    The cemetery where the soldiers who died in the first days of the offensive lie; their ranks and home towns are written on the marble headstones. In the middle rises a statue of Mustafa Kemal Paşa, mid-stride with his hand raised to his chin.

    Great Offensive Martyrs' Cemetery
    Photo: Beshogur / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    Location: OSM and the photo's location data.

  4. 4

    Zafertepe · Battle of the Commander-in-Chief Memorial

    ≈ 45 min by car (≈ 40 km) west, Zafertepeçalköy (Kütahya) · stay 40 min

    The hill where Mustafa Kemal Paşa directed the Battle of the Commander-in-Chief on 30 August 1922. The memorial area has concrete monuments and panels describing the battle; the Martyred Standard-Bearer Mehmetçik Memorial is nearby.

    Zafertepe · Battle of the Commander-in-Chief Memorial
    Photo: Uzak esme / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    Choose a place for lunch in advance; there are few facilities on the village roads. Location: the memorial marker on OSM.

  5. 5

    Dumlupınar Martyrs' Cemetery

    ≈ 20 min by car (≈ 15 km) south-west, Dumlupınar · stay 60 min

    The park's largest memorial site: a long flight of steps climbs to the Martyred Soldier Monument on the hilltop, surrounded by headstones and a statue of a soldier carrying a wounded comrade. Mustafa Kemal Paşa laid the monument's foundation stone at a ceremony on 30 August 1924.

    Dumlupınar Martyrs' Cemetery
    Photo: Hazarckr / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    It gets very crowded on 30 August and roads may be closed; check the ceremony programme before you go.

One more day? Bursa.

Outside Istanbul

≈ 2 h 15 min · fast ferry + bus · Day trip

Why here: The first Ottoman capital. The Green Mosque, the Grand Mosque and Koza Han make an easy day trip; we suggest it if you are staying in Istanbul for more than four days. Not part of this route.

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